Leg 1 - The Ride Out

The time has come...

There’s something a little bit surreal about arriving in a new country. Just a day earlier you are sitting at your parents, eating Pumpkin curry laksa and relaxing. Then suddenly you are transported to a new world, surrounded by new sights, smells, noises and customs. I don’t think it ever gets old – the feelings of nervousness and excitement coupled with a healthy dose of uncertainty. My arrival into Nepal was no different.

It’s always challenging travelling with a bike – first of all – they are heavy buggers and when you are by yourself it’s a work out just trying to get it out of the airport doors. That is, of course, once the hour long queue for a visa subsides. I had arranged old mate from the hotel to pick me up and together with his cousins / brothers / friends, we managed to squeeze the bike box into the back of his little Fiat and we were away. I was considering staying a day or 2 in Kathmandu, but after I settled into my hotel and did the customary walk around town, I was already getting itchy feet. With my body clock warped and forcing me wide awake the next day at 530am, it was settled – I would build the bike up and ride out of town on Day 1 – I’ve seen my fair share of temples anyway!

Taking to the road

Cycling in or out of a new city is always a tricky affair and Kathmandu was no exception. The streets are insanely narrow and there is no rhyme or reason to the way the traffic moves or where the roads go. Luckily though, I am borderline OCD and had drawn my map out of town on Google map, exported it to my phone mapping application and had it mounted on my handlebars. All I had to do was follow the blue line and it worked perfectly! Part of me felt bad for “cheating”, but a WAY bigger part of me was chuffed that I was out of Kathmandu relatively unscathed and soon to be climbing up into the hills.

Looking clean on day 1

And climb I did – and climb – and climb some more! Look, I knew Nepal was going to be hilly, I’m not an idiot – but I guess I was just hoping it wouldn’t start immediately. Nope, no such luck! After the initial getaway from the main city, I was climbing – and climbing fast. Sweat pouring down and heart rate racing, I had the familiar thoughts of “you’re an idiot”. The sucker punch to it was, once I finally got to descend – the road had turned from bitumen to absolute rubbish, so any chance of free rolling was substituted by a hands locked on brakes, arse bumping, brakes screaming descent. That was quickly followed by more of – you guessed it – climbing!

Climbing out of the valley

Tough roads - day 1

Just when I thought I’d be better on a bus, I witnessed what I hope is the closest I will ever come to a massive bus crash in my life. I was crawling up a few switchbacks as a bus was coming down. He’d decided to come in tight to the bend and managed to put his rear wheel in the ditch. At least 25 people jumped from the windows on the high side as the bus see-sawed on the broken road, threatening to topple over. I started thinking about where my first aid kit was just in case I needed to swing into action, but although it is fairly well stocked, I’m not sure I could have helped a bus full of squashed Nepalese. After much commotion, the bus screeched out of the ditch and continued down, with the disembarked passengers forced to chase after it. I shall be keeping this incident at the front of my mind when I need to decide between a short mountain flight and a bus ride at the end of my running trip!

Old wobbles wobbles

With the commotion of the near bus fatality over, I started thinking of finding someone to rest for the night, but with only 40km behind me, I was feeling sheepish about getting behind my schedule so early on. Just another hour or so I told myself…..well that would have been fine if I had of checked the map properly! That little village that appeared like the perfect place to find a bed for the night looked close on the map, but it turns out I wasn’t paying attention to the topographical particulars. So I left the random village which had a guest house beckoning me and continued on.

As I rounded the third switch back I was seriously considering turning back – but pride got the better of me and I kept climbing. Now I am pretty sure there are some rules about road construction and exactly what gradient you are allowed to make it! If there are – the Nepalese weren’t paying attention in road building school! Every corner seemed stepper than the next and I was constantly out of the saddle, willing my legs to spin the pedals over. What made matters more fun is the quantity of jeeps speeding up the hill. You see – they don’t like losing momentum, so they pretty much drive up as fast as their piece of shit TATA’s will let them and just sit on the horn at every blind corner. That’s fine when no-one is coming down, but if they are – the poor little cycle tourer ends up in the dirt!

An impromptu stop about half way up due to some road works was a good opportunity to dive down the bag for some emergency energy gels, as the boiled egg and chick peas I’d had for lunch were starting to wane. Finally, and after 1.5 hours of grinding up the pass I was welcomed by a friendly English speaking local in a worn out puffer vest who promptly yelled something to his wife that ended up with spicy noodles and water in front of me! He had a room to rent downstairs too and promised me a hearty breakfast to get me on my way in the morning. When I explained to him where I had ridden from he just responded nonchalantly,  “yeah I noticed you were sweating when you arrived”. Turns out those types of climbs are part and parcel around here!

So after a hearty meal of spicy noodles, tea, beer and some cookies, I settled into my room. The ever preset buzz of moths, combined with chickens scratching outside and flickering lights, all punctuated by the smell of day old urine in the squat toilet was not enough to stop me from falling into a deep sleep. Day 1 in the bag!

I woke the next morning to an unfortunate cover of cloud hindering what would have been an otherwise gorgeous morning outlook. Oh well – can’t change the weather I guess, and judging by how hard the rain was falling as I was nodding off to sleep last night, I count myself lucky. Old mate in the puffer jacket had a brekky of eggs, tea, juice and funky mountain bread whipped up for me and pretty soon I was loaded and on my way. I was planning 100km today so was keen to get moving.

As I rounded the first corner I saw my favourite road sign ever – the one of the little car descending down the hill. This was good news for my aching legs. Not so great for my wrists though as the steepness of the next 10km of riding was insane. My wrists jammed on the bars, brakes squealing beneath me as the altitude dropped and dropped. All the hard work from yesterday was flying by at a much more respectable pace. 40 mins later, I could ease up on the brakes and a quick glanced down confirmed my thinking – I’d dropped over 1,000m in just over 10km.  Now that’s a good start to the morning! The descent continued too, albeit more gently, and as I let go my first vocal “woooo” of the trip, I rolled peacefully through the rolling fields and warm morning air.

As with most touring days however – with the good comes the bad and after my morning stop of samosas and pakora, I turned from the quaint back roads to the main East- West highway where I would stay for the remainder of the day.

Sharp Descents

The road was flat and the riding fast, but the traffic amped up and the car horns continued with gusto. I cannot quite understand the penchant for a drivers’ horn usage – seriously, if you are coming TOWARD me and you are a truck, there is no need to toot. I can see you – and if I can’t – well I deserve to be hit! Alas – onwards I rolled. As I benefited from yesterdays climbing by continuously descending into a valley, the glory of fast rolling wheels was being overcome by the rising of the temperature…..35, 36, 37….up to a high of 40 degrees as I sweated through the midday heat. With no cool spots to rest it was actually better to keep riding and let the wind cool you down. The warmth forced some impromptu gear adjustments, with my long loved cycling hat that Gareth bough me in Uganda, receiving some “air conditioning vents” and the sleeves to my cycling jersey being ripped off. I was getting quite the looks as I stormed through town with my cycling jersey wide open exposing my pale white skin to the locals. Not sure if the cheers were that of joy or disgust!

Cycling hat - A/C mode

With my ipod on full noise with INXS Live at Wembley (1991) keeping my mind off my bikes squeaking bottom bracket, I chugged through the afternoon and after 101km, finally arrived at Chitwan National park. Apparently plenty of tourists come here for safari drives into the park to look for Bengal tigers and view Elephants. I feel like I have tapped out on safari’s in my life, so it was just a relaxing place to rest for the afternoon for me before getting back in the saddle tomorrow. Besides – a short stroll to the river and I saw a big fat Rhino grazing in the grass and some elephants cruising past my guest house anyway….no need for a paid safari for me!

Local Traffic

Chitwan National Park

Me and mr Rhino

Coffee and breakfast on the balcony of the hotel overlooking the river was a nice way to start the day, but provided little motivation to get going. Miles needed to be covered though, so I finally willed myself up and onto the bike to hit the highway. I was under no illusions that today would be pleasant. A quick glance of the map showed a flat highway, junction towns and no real interesting sights along the way. I felt the ipod might be my friend today – particularly with the old creeky bike driving me nuts!

One thing I didn’t consider too well for this trip is the heat – oh goodness the heat. Now I have ridden in some idiotic heat in my time – Myanmar last year comes to mind – but this was something else. It was constantly in the 40’s and making me sweat at record rates. I couldn’t keep up with my hydration and there was no shade to be seen for respite. An earlier start would have been a better idea!

That being said – it could have been worse – it could have been raining. Rain sucks!  Although the riding was unspectacular today, it’s always interesting to cycle by and watch the local life go by. Everyone is going somewhere – but I don’t know where! Scooter here, bus there, bike over there – what’s everyone doing in these towns!?!?!

 

Some friendly helpers

Map consulting committee

After a hot and flat 80k, I was faced with a big pass to end the day. Although I didn’t have much juice left to climb, the change in rhythm was a god send and I was happy to push up the hill and then roll freely down the other side. Arriving at a random junction town with the speedo reading 95km, I was faced with a dilemma….stop and stay here, or keep pushing, knowing that the next hotel was a further 35km. After the descent I was feeling great, but knowing that would wash away pretty quickly and with the sun finally starting to set, I decided on the former.

I know from experience that there are 2 towns you don’t want to stay for the night – border towns and junction towns! Well I was at the mother of the 2 – a junction town 20km up from the Indian border. Trucks, buses, cars….everywhere! The only decent hotel was on the corner of the main intersection. Refusing to stay right on the junction, I went in search of a back street, quiet room. I found the back street alright, the room though – well, let’s just say it ranks in my top 3 filthiest rooms I’ve stayed. I have a pretty good tolerance for filth – but this was next level. I mean, seriously – just rinse the saliva and toothpaste remnants from the last guess out of the sink at least!

A man, alone, in a filthy room

I washed and went walkabout for the night, finding a dive place to eat and have a beer while being entertained by some local kids insistent on asking me questions. I was pretty much doing anything to avoid heading back to the filth factory. Heavy eyes defeated me though and I retired to a night of restless sleep on my sarong with my flannel shirt as a pillow, being eaten by mosquitoes and almost blown away by the ceiling fan with only one speed – turbo!

Relaxing in the street to avoid filth factory

Desperate to get out of filth factory, I was on the road early and with the sun at my back, was feeling pretty excited about the day ahead. I just needed to get the first 35km of flat, dusty roads out of my way and I would start heading north for the mountains. Now, I knew that there was some serious climbing ahead, which typically makes my legs shake with angst, I also knew that the destination for the night was perched high on a hilltop, 1,300m up, with the thought of a cooler climate something to look forward to. After my “mis-management” of food on the first day, I have been determined to keep the fuel intake up and avoid "angry Greg" from making an appearance on this trip. Luckily for me, Nepal is an easy country for a hungry vegetarian with all the villages serving up their takes on delicious daal / naan / noodles / miscellaneous deep fried snacks. I have only had to go down the cookies and snickers bar route on one occasion which must be a record for me!

This particular morning though, i'd only had an energy bar for breakfast and thus stopped after an hour for a top up. Now, I’ve met some randoms in my time – but to sit down in a food shack in a dusty junction town and then be greeted by a man who is local to the town, but lives in Glenroy, Victoria….that’s a new one! Turns out old mate was on holiday back to his village and kept me company as I smashed through some more daal and entertained his stories about AFL, Melbourne life and everything in between.

Fantastic Riding

Another short ride and another plate of noodles later, I was ready for the serious climbing of the day. I’ve been following my brother’s blog which followed this same route a few years back and knew I was in for a treat of a day. The highway quickly started climbing and winding its way up a narrow gorge as I pushed North. Small villages clung on the hillside, the whizzing busses seemed to disappear and for the most part, it was just me and my creaky bike keeping me company. The solitude was bliss and this was the type of Nepal I was looking forward to - a side of the country I wasn't sure was going to materialize after a few days on the flat, hot plains. 

Battleship striking a pose

The hope of the heat dissipating was unfortunately misguided as the mercury seemed to rise as I climbed. I’ve banned myself from looking at my thermo as I ride now as it messes with my head, but at one check it read a balmy 47 degrees. The locals thought I was crazy as I kept stopping everytime I saw a little water trickling off the side of the road, dunking my head, face and neck in an attempt to cool off. My cycling hat has now entered “Air Conditioning turbo mode” with the entire top section cut out so as to release some heat while keeping me shaded. I doubt I’ll be winning any fashion awards over here!

Old mate obviously not feeling the heat.....black on black

Balmy

Cycling hat - fully air conditioned

Despite the heat, the riding was spectacular with nice views and friendly kids cheering me on as I passed through town. Whatever must they have though as this bearded white stranger staggered through town, shirt open, hat ripped up, bike creaking and sweat pouring from his face.

The destination for the day was Tansen – a high mountain village that loomed over the valley as it came into view. This was a climb not to be tackled lightly, so in preparation, I stopped for a massive bowl of fried rice, more water and a little internal pep talk. 500m of climbing over 5km is nothing to sneeze at, particularly when it rounds out the day, but my legs felt strong and I kept going up and up until I finally reached town. I will admit – the final climb up the impossibly steep streets of town was assisted by a few young lads who must have seen my anguish and helped push me up. Making up for the filth factory of the night prior, I checked into a relatively fancy place ($25 – shower doesn’t work so had to use the arse cleaner hose thingy, sweet view tough) and chilled out for the night.

Steep town - Tansen

View from my room - Tansen

Street art - Tansen

Dead slow - don't have to tell me twice

Although I was up again with the sun, I was enjoying the relatively comfortable digs and spent the morning strolling the town, eating samosas, walking impossibly steep streets and doing some photography. I’d given myself the next 2 days to get the 125km to Pokhara anyway, so there was no great rush. Once I did climb onto the battleship, the legs were heavy from the day before so lucky for me today was down down and more down – back into the canyon and winding around the ridges until I finally got to my half way point of Waling. 

The mountain scenery is beautiful in these parts and really does encourage a more relaxed pace. The villages were full of kids cheering support, some running alongside me as I sweated up the little pinches. I really enjoyed the pace of life here, everyone was friendly and happy to help when I stopped looking hungry and thirsty. On my last day into Pokhara I managed to meet a few fellow cyclists who were travelling in the opposite direction. They had been emailing my brother for Nepal route advice and knew I was coming. We shared a chat and some tips on the road ahead and they also put me in contact with a cycle tourer in Pokhara who coincidentally manages a hotel. It’s a small world and even smaller for silly bike tourers and as luck would have it, I tracked down their contact here in Pokhara and he is putting me up for a few nights and babysitting my bike while I go on running adventures! Legend.

Cycle touring friends on the road

My little bike mechanic

Free physics lesson with every samosa

So here I am, 450 odd km complete on the bike and bag packed for my running adventures to start tomorrow. Unfortunately the Himalayas have been hiding behind the clouds all week so I haven’t seen exactly what I am in for yet – but judging by the long shadows I was riding in yesterday, cast by ever increasingly prominent peaks as I headed North, I’ve got a fair idea!

Running kit - ready to go!